Getting in the Christmas Spirit

The Makao Community Center is going ahead and we need your help to make it happen! The Village of Makao, together with Mwiba Wildlife Reserve is going to change the lives of many people of Makao village. Through the construction and implementation of a community center which will support early childhood development, through a nursery/play group program, health through HIV awareness courses and other medical support, and environmental education through films, presentations and hands on activities, people in Makao will have access to basic necessities, which they will have helped bring to their own community.  The construction of the center will employ many people from Makao village, as will the daily running of the center.  However, this project will not be able to move forward without external support!  Get into the Christmas Spirit….instead of giving a material gift to someone you love, donate to the Makao Community Center in their name and be a part of the improvement of multiple peoples’ lives!

Grant and I have been living in Mwiba Wildlife Reserve, which is adjacent to Makao, for almost a year now (Grant for almost 2 years).  Having spent a lot of time in the village and working with the people who Mwiba employs from Makao, we have learned and seen how much a project like this could uplift the community.  The children of Makao have no early educational stimulation and many sit on the side of the road in the dirt playing with plastic or razors or are out working strenuous hours planting or harvesting crops. Many of the people of Makao are not fully educated on HIV/AIDs, how to combat it and what they can do to prevent it, and if you are sick, you have to travel long distances to a doctor who has the proper tests and a full cabinet of medicine to be treated.  From the Maasai and Mang’ati to the Wasukuma, most of the village has lost touched with their relationship with nature, which has led to habitat destruction and encroachment on wildlife. The environmental education that they would receive would be hugely beneficial and help to explain the various benefits of nature and protecting their natural resources.  One of the most exciting aspects of the project will be that it will not just be Mwiba building and giving the center to the community, but a project which both the village and Mwiba will be responsible for, from a funding as well as management perspective. 

Please email me if you're interested in learning more or donating to the Makao Community Center! 

Conservation Friendly Safaris - Go On One!

Unless we practice conservation, those who come after us will have to pay the price of misery, degradation, and failure for the progress and prosperity of our day. (Gifford Pinchot)

 Plans to protect air and water, wilderness and wildlife are in fact plans to protect man. (Stewart Udall)

Question: How do you choose which safari to go on and which camp to stay at and which company to book through? Frankly, when looking through Africa travel magazines or websites most of them look the same…

As our global population reaches 7 billion and growing, the importance of wildlife conservation grows daily- if a pointed effort is not made, the wildlife you are coming to see and experience will be decimated in a matter of time. A suggestion  – if you are going on safari in Africa, when you are looking at accommodation websites, look further than the photo gallery.  See if there is a conservation or giving back link, and if so, take the time to read about what they are doing….is it just recycling water bottles OR have they employed people to manage the ecosystem and are anti-poaching efforts mentioned?  This particular aspect will narrow down the amount of camps and lodges you are sifting through, and will ensure that the safari you are about to embark on will be sustainable, more eco-friendly and you will actually be a part of a conservation experience. 

For example, Ker & Downey Tanzania works in conjunction with the Friedkin Conservation Fund - a conservation organization, which is implementing wildlife law enforcement and community development in all of the Ker & Downey camps/properties.  Mwiba for instance, is fully dedicated to the long- term conservation of the area, with a law enforcement team of 40 men from the local village who have been trained and selected for their ability to protect the area.

Singita Grumeti Reserves is also a wonderful example of a company which has not only hit the very top of the travel market but which has also implemented effective wildlife security and community development through the Grumeti Fund.

Below is a list of safari companies/camps, which are dedicated to the sustainability of the wildlife in the area.  Almost all of the camps listed below are run and supported privately.  These types of projects and places will be the future of conservation in Africa- private investment from conservation to community development is the way forward!

Tanzania

Ker & Downey Tanzania: Mwiba Wildlife Reserve, Tandala, Malagarasi (http://www.legendaryadventure.com/LAI-photo/index.htm)

Singita Sasakwa Lodge, Sabora Tented Camp, Faru Faru Lodge, Explore Camp:  Singita Grumeti Reserves (www.singita.com)

Kenya

Lewa Downs Safari Camp: Lewa Downs Conservancy (www.lewa.org)

Mara Conservancy (www.maratriangle.org)  

Zambia

Robin Pope Safaris/African Parks Network: Liuwa Plain National Park (www.robinpopesafaris.net)

Malawi

Robin Pope Safaris/African Parks Network: Mkulumadzi Lodge (www.robinpopesafaris.net)

Zimbabwe

Singita Pamushana Lodge: Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve (www.singita.com)

South Africa

Tswalu: Tswalu Kalahari (www.tswalu.com)

  

The ultimate test of man's conscience may be his willingness to sacrifice something today for future generations whose words of thanks will not be heard. (Gaylord Nelson)

Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot,

Nothing is going to get better. It's not (Dr. Suess)

It's The End Of The Dry Season

The dry season in Africa varies depending on your location- however, in Mwiba the rains come in around November.  The change is not as dramatic as in some places, like Liuwa Plain National Park, where the entire plain is flooded under a couple of feet of water and you use boats instead of cars BUT there is still a change.  I am very excited to watch the dry, dead looking vegetation turn into a canvas of neon green with splashes of pink and yellow and purple wildflowers.  From the first rain in October or November to the height of the wildflowers in March takes about 5 months, but it is well worth the wait.

Also check out article on Liuwa Plain National Park from October Edition of Africa Geographic:  http://www.stevecunliffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/Africa-Geographic-Summing-Up-Carnivores.pdf

Mwiba / Makao

As all conservationists understand, people are a huge part in the success or failure of wildlife conservation.  In Mwiba, this is definitely true, as Makao Village which borders the reserve is surrounded by 4 conservation areas. Our challenge and goal is how to make that fact a good thing for the community and not a bad thing.  How do we help them to increase their way of life and make a direct correlation between the conservation of the wild animals on their doorstep and the improvement of their way of life.  The one thing I know is that you do not accomplish this by throwing free things at them….that creates two problems- one is that it instills a sense of entitlement, which does not encourage market creation/an increase of capital and two, it does not help increase their knowledge of how protecting animals protects tourism which leads to employment in the industry as well as in markets which support that industry (e.g.: guides, drivers, wildlife law enforcement, camp waiters, supervisors, housekeepers, cooks and jewelry projects, vegetables/food produce, cultural exhibitions, etc).  At Mwiba we are starting our first community project, which will lay a foundation for more projects and markets.  It is the Makao Community Center, which will be built and run using funds and people from both Makao and Mwiba.  The center will offer a child day care/play group.  This will cost the parents only what they can afford and which can be paid in multiple forms (i.e. cows or goats or cash, etc).  It will simultaneously serve as a health clinic, which will concentrate on pediatric care and HIV.  Lastly, it will be used as a center for environmental education.  The village will be encouraged to gather at the center to discuss ideas and ways to move forward as a community and with Mwiba, to create more markets and a more sustainable lifestyle amongst the conservation areas surrounding them.

If you would like to contribute to or learn more about the Makao Community Center, please contact me:  bkansteiner@gmail.com

Here are some pictures of the people of Makao Village.  

Ulaya

Ulaya: a Swahili word that I learned while in a conversation with the waiter and supervisor at Mwiba Tented Camp.  It technically means Europe, but in Tanzania people will use it to mean anything outside of Africa.  There is something romantic about the notion of “other worlds”…Africa as another world to Westerners and the West as another world to Africans.  I find myself in what I consider an extremely lucky position, as I get to experience both of these worlds.  Although magical, to generalize about both the West and Africa is a mistake (even in our forever homogenizing world).   However, stereotypes are usually made based on truths and when Africans ask me about the American dream, there is truth to that romantic side of America.  When Americans ask me about wild Africa and living in tents lit by candles amongst lions and elephants, there is also truth to that romantic notion of Africa…however, we all know that both places have very harsh realities and many layers of complex markets and politics.  I am not one for avoiding those realities, but maybe it is not such a bad thing to focus on the good stereotypes.  So…while living in Africa, I am making a concerted effort to focus on the good and not let the negative realities get me down….recently, I was in the UK and America for an amazing vacation, and it was very easy to get caught in the American dream.  Many of my close friends are living what a Tanzanian (and myself) would consider the American dream.  They never cease to amaze me and I could not be more proud or miss them anymore than I do.  Here is a list of some websites/companies/interesting sectors that they are involved with or have created:

NYC Times Square

Living Social (www.livingsocial.com)

Toms Shoes (www.tomsshoes.com)

Roarke NYC (www.roarkenyc.com)

Rachel Halvorson Design (www.nestegg.typepad.com)

Big Bang Strategy (www.bigbangstrategy.com )

IRI: (www.iri.org)

Social Work: although I do not have a direct link that you should check out, this is a sector that is under appreciated, in my opinion, and the people involved are truly amazing.

Dar Es Salaam

The above list is a testament to American education. However, despite many Westerners notions, there are also Tanzanians who are involved in an equally diverse array of professions.  The difference is in the opportunity. Education and employment is not as easily obtained in places like Makao as it is in Middleburg.  At Mwiba we are trying to jump start community development, based on expanding markets that the village (Makao) is interested in.  These are things such as vegetables and chickens, as well as early childhood development opportunities and environmental education (through a community center which will hopefully become a place to host computer education and micro-finance courses), all to increase the opportunity of creating the American dream in Africa. 

Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti

Bison in Wyoming

In the same conversation where I learned about Ulaya, I attempted (in my broken Swahili) to explain that people in the Western world believe that what people in Africa have is also special. That their unique spectrum of global markets, diverse culture, wilderness and wildlife, must not be thrown away to try and emulate Western ways, because that uniqueness will be and already is, hugely beneficial in regards to monetary as well as earthly value.  The same goes for the West.  We should also honor our cultural diversity, wilderness and wildlife, but not give up any of our easily accessible (in comparison to Africa) educational, employment and market opportunities.   Having lived in the West as well as in Africa, there are huge differences, which is where a lot of our generalizations come from BUT there are also similarities.

I'm a bad blogger

It is has now been almost three weeks since my last post...woops.  Things have been a little busy BUT now we are going on leave! I could not be more excited...London to see my parents in their new pad and then to the US to see one of my best friends get married!

More updates soon!

From One End To The Other: Mwiba - Serengeti - Grumeti

Last week we drove from Mwiba, through Serengeti National Park, to Singita Grumeti Reserves. Starting in Mwiba, which is on the south side of Serengeti, we drove 6 hours and ended up in Grumeti, which is on the north side of the park. The trip made me think about a lot, some of which I am going to try to put plainly here….but it is still long winded.

Firstly- Tanzania is seriously beautiful.

            As we were driving through one section of the national park called Moru Kopjes (10 years ago renowned for where the last remaining black rhinos lived while they were being poached to the brink of extinction) we were chatting about the sustainability of an area like this under a partnered management system between the State and private sector….BUT we thought, that will never happen because we are in a national park.…a pause, and then we realized that the organization, African Parks Network is doing just what we had been day dreaming about.  Although, it is very unlikely APN will take over management of the Serengeti, the point is that they are doing what no other organization OR private individual is doing in African conservation.  The finesse of arranging with governments, an agreement that allows a private/outside organization to manage a national park, is incredible.  This, followed by the management of those areas, from law enforcement to tourism to community development, is amazing.  I do hope they will be able to develop a Tanzanian portfolio. If you are interested in visiting, volunteering or donating to one of their projects visit: www.african-parks.org . A pic of their project in Liuwa Plain National Park (Zambia) below.  Grant and Matt Becker (Zambian Carnivore Program) collaring a wild dog….I want to go back!

            How do I explain the feeling that we get arriving in Grumeti- I have spent enough time there that driving toward Sasakwa hill feels a little bit like coming home.  It helps that on top of the hill are some very good friends and a fridge stocked with cold beverages to share with those good friends…despite those two variables, it is also just an incredible place.  It just won top leisure hotel of the world and the law enforcement achievements and habituation of game that has flooded into the area is phenomenal.  For more info: www.singita.com . Pic of Grant and I on a horse safari….I want to go back!

            Coming home to Mwiba, we realized a couple things: a) that this project is still in its infancy stages BUT b) that we are getting there and that the light at the end of the tunnel is very bright and c) this is and hopefully will remain the most exclusive wildlife area in Tanzania.   Unlike many other places it still feels wild, (without feeling scary) AND you have a safari experience of the old world - no one looking over your shoulder and no other guests you have to share it with.  There are endless options and activities.  We are very excited about recent decisions on building a lodge (in the coolest spot ever), making Mwiba one of the most exclusive safari destinations in East Africa! Pic of the second male lion we have seen on the property…I want to stay!

Overall our little trip left me with a good feeling, as the two areas, Grumeti and Mwiba protecting the borders of Serengeti National Park, are two of the most well-functioning wildlife conservation areas in Tanzania, and hopefully effective safeguards for the wildlife living in between.  

Bush Pics

Being in Arusha, with internet that works, I thought I would capitalize on the opportunity to upload and download as many items as possible.  Here are a series of Mwiba pictures from the last couple months.

Stone Blind: Mwamgushe Spring (where you can watch ellies, buffalo, waterbuck and more come to drink)

Waterbuck (although they are not monogamous, I have a terribly tendency to personify animals..in my mind this is definitely a happy little family).

Tree House! Springs which you cant see are all around- we have seen elephant, buffalo, roan and cheetah from the tree house...you can also sleep up there, under the stars. 

Not sure which I like more, the ellie or the yellow flowers- cant wait til next April

A mama and two babies- one of the cooler things about Mwiba is that the wildebeest migration comes through when they are having their calves...very cute!

Lioness

Masai at sunset...one of Grant's photos and one of my very favorite

One of the big beautiful trees of Mwiba 

Some buffalo bulls...they are such grumpy old men

Anyone for an adrenalin rush?? Look closely in the tree above the elephant.

Bush Internet

I think thought I have had conquered the internet this yesterday afternoon, but to no avail- giving it my second try today. As I said this morning when the internet was NOT working, "patience is a virtue, internet is a necessity"....although this is not true, sometimes it feels true.  Some days I find my patience running thin on the things in life we take for granted in America...for example: I got ahead of myself last week saying that running water and a new tent were on my doorstep as we are only "moving in" next week...things have been a little busy to say the least. However, other aspects of life here eliminate those feelings such as the awesome number of elephant that are here at the moment. About 90% of them are relaxed, but the remainder have not realized our vehicles are not the enemy...at least I have risen above my fear of the 10%, as I successfully drove past an upset herd and am still in one piece. Other animal news: we saw 5 cheetah in one day last week; we sat in tree stands (a little chair bolted into a tree) above some of the springs and 150 buffalos and 2 elephant bulls were right under us- very cool; also, we got trap cameras which we put up and we now have pics of wild dog, eland, lions, buffalo, elephant, striped hyena, aardvark, etc.

Tanzania Dream Trip

In many conservation and hospitality industries located in the bush, like Mwiba, you work for a couple of months without stopping and then you get a couple of weeks off.  There are ups and downs.  The up is that you get several big chunks of time off every year to see family and friends.  However, you always seem to leave Tanzania, because why would you stay here on your time off? The problem is that you never see the country you are living in. When many people think of Tanzania they think of the Serengeti and Zanzibar…for good reason, as they are both incredible places BUT there are so many places in this country that are remarkable, and to get to them all takes time. SO here is my Tanzania Dream Trip.  

Let’s take a month to see it all, starting in the West and moving in a circle back to the Northeast:

Where: Moyowosi Game Reserve:  The Swamps.  A Completely different ecosystem to the Eastern part of the country and my husband will be happy because he can go Tiger Fishing. I also have always wanted to see a Shoe Bill and Situtunga.

Days: 4

Accommodation: Malagarasi (Legendary Adventures)

Where: Mahale National Park: Chimps Please! A beautiful park in the Southwest of the country- I have seen incredible pics and videos and heard some awesome stories (from friends who lived there and friends who have visited…a definite must).

Days: 5

Accommodation: Kungwe Beach Lodge

Where: Selous Game Reserve: The biggest game reserve in Africa and it is at my doorstep.  Very excited because we could see lots of wild dogs (my favorite animal of all time!).

Days: 3

Accommodation: Selous Safari Camp (Selous Safari Company)

Off to the coast!

Where: Kilwa! And the Rufiji river- supposedly some of the most beautiful beaches, close to where the river enters the ocean! Bringing a tent and sleeping bag, as there is not a lodge that I know of and it would be cool to camp on the beach, completely isolated.

Days: 2

Accommodation: Tent and sleeping bag

Where: Mnemba Island: Catch up on my tan that is sadly fading, even though I live in Africa.  Get my diving certificate?? Chill out on a dow and possibly some deep sea fishing.

Days: 3

Accommodation:  Mnemba Island Lodge  (& Beyond)

Where: Natron: beautiful area in the North.  I really want to see a gerenuk and go back to Lake Natron, with lots of flamingos and natural hot springs at the base of Gelai Mtn.   The last night, I want to camp in a gorge called Sanjan, where animals’ calls echo off the gorge walls and lovebirds nest in the crevices.

Days: 5

Accommodation: Tandala Camp   (Legendary Adventures)

                                  Merugoi    (Legendary Adventures)

Where: Singita Grumeti: The crème de la crème of African luxury.  Catch up with amazing friends, who work in an amazing place, go on a horse safari, eat unbelievable food and feel like an African Princess.

Days: 6           

Accommodation: Sabora Tented Camp   (Singita)

          Faru Faru Lodge      (Singita)

Back Home

Where: MWIBA! Private conservation concession south of Serengeti national park. Amazing wildlife, exclusivity and many inimitable activities!

Days: 90

Accommodation: Home (Legendary Adventures)

Now, I need reservations and about 5 charter flights! Who’s coming with me? 

Americans in Africa

For the last three weeks we have had our first three groups of guests in Mwiba! I am not the only American in the bush after all! Mwiba guests stay at a tented camp called Mwarubushu, which overlooks several natural springs.  The activity list in Mwiba gets longer every week and the feedback from our guests on some of those activities has been great. Swimming in the hippo pool (which does not have hippos), sitting in the blinds, going on walks, visiting the Lake Eyasi escarpment, are a few of the one of a kind experiences that Mwiba has to offer (pictures below). Wildlife viewing has also been incredible and there is no doubt that it played a major role in the guests’ experiences, as the animals seemed to have entered on cue. Although it is not the Ngorongoro Crater and you are not guaranteed to see the Big 5, when you do see something like a leopard, cheetah, elephant, buffalo, lion, roan, waterbuck, zebra or giraffe or any of the numerous bird species (which I am not listing, because my bird knowledge is close to atrocious), you deserve it and you get it all to yourself.  Because Mwiba is a private area, your experience there is completely private.  No other game viewers or guests you do not know or who you have to share your sighting with.  One of the main goals moving forward is to maintain that exclusivity while the wildlife, as well as the camp, gets better and better.

On a totally personal note- this is a very exciting week because I will get to move into a tent that has the following: a zipper that works (the three bobby pins keeping my tent closed are not cool anymore); hot & cold water AND faucets (this is probably the biggest thing!); and NO mice.  Yay for progress. 

Lake Eyasi Escarpment

Sundowner Set Up 

Hippo Pools (no, the man in the upper left hand corner is not attacking Grant...he just cannot believe someone would be so crazy as to jump of a 20 ft rock into water)

Conservation + Eco-friendly Tourism = Sustainable Ecosystems and Economies

The above calculation is only valid when executed properly.  Conservation requires skilled management as well as a team of skilled law enforcement scouts and more capital than one probably realizes.  There is an organization in Tanzania which figures that if you want to successfully protect a wildlife area, you need to put approximately $1000 into every square kilometer of land.  Unfortunately, many of the African states which have made a concerted effort to protect their wildlife, do not have enough capital to put that type of money into each protected area.  In Tanzania alone, there are over 20 protected areas (National Parks, Game Reserves, Wildlife Management Areas, etc)!  However, there are some individuals who are investing privately in conservation areas in East Africa, supporting and training law enforcement teams and single handedly making a HUGE difference.  What fuels some of this investment is tourism.  But what tourism is really fuelling is a huge economic sector and employment for a vast amount of individuals living in places and situations where they would otherwise be unemployed.  I was informed at one stage a couple years ago that in sub-Saharan Africa, tourism is the second largest hard currency earner, behind natural resources….that is big!  If tourism did not exist, the governments and people in these areas would not be protecting these incredible ecosystems.  There are multiple obstacles for conservation in East Africa, some of which are poaching and a lack of funds and private individuals/companies assisting the government in conservation/law enforcement systems.  SO if you can’t fund an entire project, then at least come visit and contribute to the driving force of the protection of incredible wildlife, people and places.  As the rest of the world homogenizes, support the uniqueness of what Africa has to offer before it gets lost!

Below is a list of organizations, safari companies and people which I respect and which I will no doubt elaborate on at later stages:

Paul Tudor Jones/Grumeti Fund/Singita Grumeti: www.singita.com

African Parks Network: www.africanparks.org

Friedkins/Friedkin Conservation Fund/Legendary Adventures: www.legendaryadventure.com OR www.friedkinfund.org

A Lost Boy and Thirsty Elephants

It seems the newsletter did not work....here are some pics from those months.  My favorite is of a little Masai boy whom we found in the bush.  He was four years old and had gotten lost from home (probably while tending to his goats) and was in the bush (rife with elephants and lions) for 3 full days! What a survivor and what a testament to how if respected, humans and wildlife can live in peace.  He is now back with his family, who were ecstatic to see him.  

The second photo is not a spectacular photo, but it was a spectacular moment.  Grant and I were sitting in the tree blind (that Grant built), which is in a big acacia tree overlooking 5 natural springs. Just after the sun set, a herd of over 30 elephants came strolling in, drinking and playing and splashing in the water.  It was an indescribable moment and sitting there 10 feet above their heads, without them knowing we were there, we were able to see them engaging with each other in their utmost natural behavior.

A Little Background

Background cont'd: Grant is the project manager for Mwiba, which includes managing a law enforcement team (scouts have been trained to protect the area from poachers and other encroachers for the benefit of the wildlife), construction projects, conservation/village relations, wildlife monitoring/research, etc.  I am a newbie and have only been in Mwiba for a couple months, but am slowly learning the ropes.  My main concentration is on overseeing camp staff, doing a monthly newsletter and working on various wildlife monitoring projects and community development…a bit of a mish mash, which helps keep my attention.  Mwiba is a beautiful area and although living in a tent with no running water and broken zippers tests ones patience, I still am infatuated with the bush.  What I love most about living in a remote area is the exposure you get to how life probably used to feel…amazing highs and incredible lows…it kind of makes you an addict!  However, what is actually important is the bigger picture, i.e. the effort to sustain this type of wilderness and wildlife, while simultaneously improving the surrounding communities ways of life…a challenge to say the least.

I grew up on a farm in Middleburg, Virginia.  My parents (Walter and Franny Kansteiner) are amazing and exposed my brother (Chalker) and me to Africa from a young age, and I loved it. When I was 14, I went to St. Georges, an awesome boarding school in Newport, RI.  Following St. Georges was Sewanee (The University of the South)….heaven on earth.   I studied Int’l Studies, focused on Africa and about a year after I graduated found myself in Tanzania and then Zambia and South Africa and back to Tanzania and somewhere in there got my pilots license in Virginia.  It was in Tanzania that I met my husband, Grant Burden.  We just got married and had the best time at our wedding and still cannot describe the total bliss of having all of our family and friends from both sides of the world, in one place.  Grant and I live in Mwiba, which is a private wildlife conservation concession south of the Serengeti National Park. Mwiba is being protected as a wildlife area and offered as a premier safari destination, by Ker & Downey Tanzania (www.legendaryadventure.com).