20.8.11

From One End To The Other: Mwiba - Serengeti - Grumeti


Last week we drove from Mwiba, through Serengeti National Park, to Singita Grumeti Reserves. Starting in Mwiba, which is on the south side of Serengeti, we drove 6 hours and ended up in Grumeti, which is on the north side of the park. The trip made me think about a lot, some of which I am going to try to put plainly here….but it is still long winded.

Firstly- Tanzania is seriously beautiful.

            As we were driving through one section of the national park called Moru Kopjes (10 years ago renowned for where the last remaining black rhinos lived while they were being poached to the brink of extinction) we were chatting about the sustainability of an area like this under a partnered management system between the State and private sector….BUT we thought, that will never happen because we are in a national park.…a pause, and then we realized that the organization, African Parks Network is doing just what we had been day dreaming about.  Although, it is very unlikely APN will take over management of the Serengeti, the point is that they are doing what no other organization OR private individual is doing in African conservation.  The finesse of arranging with governments, an agreement that allows a private/outside organization to manage a national park, is incredible.  This, followed by the management of those areas, from law enforcement to tourism to community development, is amazing.  I do hope they will be able to develop a Tanzanian portfolio. If you are interested in visiting, volunteering or donating to one of their projects visit: www.african-parks.org . A pic of their project in Liuwa Plain National Park (Zambia) below.  Grant and Matt Becker (Zambian Carnivore Program) collaring a wild dog….I want to go back!

            How do I explain the feeling that we get arriving in Grumeti- I have spent enough time there that driving toward Sasakwa hill feels a little bit like coming home.  It helps that on top of the hill are some very good friends and a fridge stocked with cold beverages to share with those good friends…despite those two variables, it is also just an incredible place.  It just won top leisure hotel of the world and the law enforcement achievements and habituation of game that has flooded into the area is phenomenal.  For more info: www.singita.comPic of Grant and I on a horse safari….I want to go back!

            Coming home to Mwiba, we realized a couple things: a) that this project is still in its infancy stages BUT b) that we are getting there and that the light at the end of the tunnel is very bright and c) this is and hopefully will remain the most exclusive wildlife area in Tanzania.   Unlike many other places it still feels wild, (without feeling scary) AND you have a safari experience of the old world - no one looking over your shoulder and no other guests you have to share it with.  There are endless options and activities.  We are very excited about recent decisions on building a lodge (in the coolest spot ever), making Mwiba one of the most exclusive safari destinations in East Africa! Pic of the second male lion we have seen on the property…I want to stay!

Overall our little trip left me with a good feeling, as the two areas, Grumeti and Mwiba protecting the borders of Serengeti National Park, are two of the most well-functioning wildlife conservation areas in Tanzania, and hopefully effective safeguards for the wildlife living in between.