Apologies South Africa

When I first really fell in love with Africa, I was 17.  My family and I went to Niassa Game Reserve in northern Mozambique.  My life seriously changed because of that trip.  Niassa is, or at least it was in 2003, the most spectacular, untouched and simply magnificent piece of bush I had seen. Still to this day, in my memory it is incomparable.  Flying over miombo woodlands, climbing and camping atop inselburgs, paddling through flowing and hippo infested rivers, seeing wildlife, walking in the bush, was unbeatable. This trip sealed the deal for me and my relationship with Africa. It also helped me get into Sewanee (as it was the basis of my college essay), and it led to trips back to Africa for the next three summers in Tanzania (Singita Grumeti), which is where in 2009 I met my husband, who in turn introduced me to Mwiba.  After my trip to Niassa I developed an obsession with only going to the “Real Africa”, which in my mind did NOT include South Africa….anyone who did a trip to Africa and chose to go to South Africa was doing “Africa Light".  Now, nine years later I am married to a South African and I stand very much corrected.

Grant and I just returned to Tanzania from South Africa, dragging our feet….solely because South Africa was fabulous.  The whole country has so much to offer beyond going on safari.  One of the best parts of the trip, second to spending time with family, was our week- long road trip from Hilton to Cape Town, all along the Eastern Coast of SA, in a Ford Figo (I am convinced it was one of five ever made).  First destination was the Transkei for a three day stopover at an intimate spot called Mbotyi.  Much to ones deception Mbotyi is one of the most exclusive and beautiful places I have been…old old shacks on the beach which have been in the family of South African farmers for generations are scattered along the breathtaking coastline.  The cottage which we were fortunate enough to stay in was 20 yards from a spectacular beach where the only other people we saw were Xhosa cattle herders moving their cows along the beach on horseback and a couple of kids on the way to school.  Beach time, combined with runs along the coast, some very good fishing attempts (sorry Grant), and a group of great people made for a solid start to our little journey.

Grant fishing along the Mbotyi Coastline.

Beach at Mbotyi- the group coming back from an afternoon run.

Next stop on the trip was outside East London, in Kwelerha Nature Reserve.  An amazing morning at Grant’s Aunt & Uncles’ Beach Cottage included watching approximately 200 dolphins swimming up the coastline.  Much like the surfers surrounding them, the dolphins were catching waves and jumping and playing in the tide.  Something about watching them leaves one with the sense that they are experiencing emotions not too far from our own (elephants have the same effect).  Bottom line was that there was no excuse for a bad day when this was our pre-breakfast activity.

From East London we drove through amazing country, full of game farms (very different than wild/vast East Africa, making me fully appreciative of our special spot), Nelson Mandela’s hometown, the start of the Garden Route, which is home to some outstanding river canyons that lead to the Indian Ocean, and quaint beach getaways where we dreamt about buying retirement cottages 50 years from now (Knysna & Wilderness to name a few).  A stop over in Wilderness at a nice little B&B and a 24 hour long re-cap of Grants days at Saasveldt made me think of Sewanee, how much I miss it and how tempting it is to go back to school! 

Next day, back in the car and off to Cape Town.   Destination for food and beverage refreshment was Hermanus….really wish we could have spent the night, especially if it had been in our budget to stay at The Birkenhead House.  A quick Caprese salad and Windhoek Lager and we were back on our way for another drive where all we could think was “Lets get a place here, or maybe here, or how about here?” 

Beach in Hermanus

This carried on all the way to our arrival in Cape Town and continued throughout our two- day stay, where Grant’s cousin Nic took us on an awesome whirlwind visit.  If staying in a hotel in Cape Town, my recommendation is The Cellars Hohenhort, where I FINALLY got my hair done- YAY, I'm blonde again!  If buying a house in Cape Town- Llandudno Beach (where we had the coldest swim of our life!), Bakoven (where we rode beach cruisers to from Sea Point…another must activity) or Constantia, amongst the forests and gardens (where Grant and Nic went for a two hour long run in the hills, while I got pampered).  

Beach Cruisers from Sea Point to Bakoven!

Other amazing CT activities, which we embarked on included paddling in the ocean amongst common dolphins, amazing health food and sushi eateries, climbing Table Mountain (tip: do it before 6:00 am and get the place completely to yourself…I wouldn’t do it any other way….although I am not sure I can do it again with three overly athletic and fit men- I did not walk for about three days!).  Our last afternoon included a drive to the penguins and to the Atlantic Ocean and then winding our way back to downtown CT, viewing seals, eating Fish and Chips in Hout Bay and seeing the Southern Right Whale from the car along Chapmans Peak.  We left wishing we had more time and if we had, the one place I would have gone to was the seafood restaurant Blues (I think it was one of the first restaurants I went to in Africa and where the Kansteiner family doesn’t miss when in town).

Table Mountain (7:00 am)

After our grand tour we headed back to charming Hilton for our last days of family and friends, acting like sponges and trying to stop planning how we are going to live our three different lives: Tanzania, the US, and South Africa…is there enough time for them all?

To finish off this long winded post about all the places I love, I would just say that if you are traveling, do not write off South Africa and if you do go, do not just go for safari AND if you have done Africa before and want to go somewhere new, try Niassa (http://www.lugenda.com/) AND if anyone has any advice on how we can live our three lives, please let me know! 

Finishing Up Strong and Having Fun

2012 NEW YEARS RESOLUTIONS: Finish Strong and Have Fun! Living in the bush, these are two mottos that are definitely doable, although require more concentration on completing than one may think.  We are surrounded by adventure and fun activities, yet when your playground also becomes your office, it takes more than one may think to remember that it is the place you moved to, to have fun.  Whether working on a small project or a big safari or work in general, our goal is to finish strong.  By finishing strong, one can start strong and in that process you are hopefully effecting whatever you do (personally or professionally) in a positive way, with positive energy and therefore also having fun. 

Not to brag, but we actually just started 2012 with a bang, implementing both of our New Years Resolutions….although to take credit for it would not be fair! The end of our work cycle coincided with a group visit from my fabulous family and family friends (17 guests in a camp that serves 12!). Although daunting at first, it was absolutely the best way to end our three month stint in the bush and the best way to start 2012! Just when we thought that there was no gas left in our tanks, the group arrived and it was a fabulous 5 days of mayhem, adventure, misbehaving, and some very good story telling! The safari included activities like swimming in the river, seeing the escarpment, an all ladies bush breakfast with plenty mimosas, the wildebeest migration, village dancers, and sundowners! All of these things we offer at camp and set up for guests, but rarely do ourselves….this time, because we were with family we let our hair down and it was FUN! We are now properly exhausted and cannot wait for our 3 weeks in South Africa, with our other fabulous family, relaxing and getting to visit some of the conservation and wildlife areas of SA…hopefully bringing back some fresh ideas and perspectives on wildlife conservation and tourism in Africa!

If you are interested in coming to Mwiba either to “finish up strong” or “have fun” or just to come and experience real Africa, conservation, a safari or to have an adventure, email me for more info. 

Also, a quick Mwiba Makao Community Center Update! The committee has been formed and a site has been chosen for where the building will be built.  Smiles on the committee members’ faces and apparent feeling of pride at our second meeting really showed their excitement and need for the project to take place.  A HUGE THANKS to all who have donated!

Getting in the Christmas Spirit

The Makao Community Center is going ahead and we need your help to make it happen! The Village of Makao, together with Mwiba Wildlife Reserve is going to change the lives of many people of Makao village. Through the construction and implementation of a community center which will support early childhood development, through a nursery/play group program, health through HIV awareness courses and other medical support, and environmental education through films, presentations and hands on activities, people in Makao will have access to basic necessities, which they will have helped bring to their own community.  The construction of the center will employ many people from Makao village, as will the daily running of the center.  However, this project will not be able to move forward without external support!  Get into the Christmas Spirit….instead of giving a material gift to someone you love, donate to the Makao Community Center in their name and be a part of the improvement of multiple peoples’ lives!

Grant and I have been living in Mwiba Wildlife Reserve, which is adjacent to Makao, for almost a year now (Grant for almost 2 years).  Having spent a lot of time in the village and working with the people who Mwiba employs from Makao, we have learned and seen how much a project like this could uplift the community.  The children of Makao have no early educational stimulation and many sit on the side of the road in the dirt playing with plastic or razors or are out working strenuous hours planting or harvesting crops. Many of the people of Makao are not fully educated on HIV/AIDs, how to combat it and what they can do to prevent it, and if you are sick, you have to travel long distances to a doctor who has the proper tests and a full cabinet of medicine to be treated.  From the Maasai and Mang’ati to the Wasukuma, most of the village has lost touched with their relationship with nature, which has led to habitat destruction and encroachment on wildlife. The environmental education that they would receive would be hugely beneficial and help to explain the various benefits of nature and protecting their natural resources.  One of the most exciting aspects of the project will be that it will not just be Mwiba building and giving the center to the community, but a project which both the village and Mwiba will be responsible for, from a funding as well as management perspective. 

Please email me if you're interested in learning more or donating to the Makao Community Center! 

Conservation Friendly Safaris - Go On One!

Unless we practice conservation, those who come after us will have to pay the price of misery, degradation, and failure for the progress and prosperity of our day. (Gifford Pinchot)

 Plans to protect air and water, wilderness and wildlife are in fact plans to protect man. (Stewart Udall)

Question: How do you choose which safari to go on and which camp to stay at and which company to book through? Frankly, when looking through Africa travel magazines or websites most of them look the same…

As our global population reaches 7 billion and growing, the importance of wildlife conservation grows daily- if a pointed effort is not made, the wildlife you are coming to see and experience will be decimated in a matter of time. A suggestion  – if you are going on safari in Africa, when you are looking at accommodation websites, look further than the photo gallery.  See if there is a conservation or giving back link, and if so, take the time to read about what they are doing….is it just recycling water bottles OR have they employed people to manage the ecosystem and are anti-poaching efforts mentioned?  This particular aspect will narrow down the amount of camps and lodges you are sifting through, and will ensure that the safari you are about to embark on will be sustainable, more eco-friendly and you will actually be a part of a conservation experience. 

For example, Ker & Downey Tanzania works in conjunction with the Friedkin Conservation Fund - a conservation organization, which is implementing wildlife law enforcement and community development in all of the Ker & Downey camps/properties.  Mwiba for instance, is fully dedicated to the long- term conservation of the area, with a law enforcement team of 40 men from the local village who have been trained and selected for their ability to protect the area.

Singita Grumeti Reserves is also a wonderful example of a company which has not only hit the very top of the travel market but which has also implemented effective wildlife security and community development through the Grumeti Fund.

Below is a list of safari companies/camps, which are dedicated to the sustainability of the wildlife in the area.  Almost all of the camps listed below are run and supported privately.  These types of projects and places will be the future of conservation in Africa- private investment from conservation to community development is the way forward!

Tanzania

Ker & Downey Tanzania: Mwiba Wildlife Reserve, Tandala, Malagarasi (http://www.legendaryadventure.com/LAI-photo/index.htm)

Singita Sasakwa Lodge, Sabora Tented Camp, Faru Faru Lodge, Explore Camp:  Singita Grumeti Reserves (www.singita.com)

Kenya

Lewa Downs Safari Camp: Lewa Downs Conservancy (www.lewa.org)

Mara Conservancy (www.maratriangle.org)  

Zambia

Robin Pope Safaris/African Parks Network: Liuwa Plain National Park (www.robinpopesafaris.net)

Malawi

Robin Pope Safaris/African Parks Network: Mkulumadzi Lodge (www.robinpopesafaris.net)

Zimbabwe

Singita Pamushana Lodge: Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve (www.singita.com)

South Africa

Tswalu: Tswalu Kalahari (www.tswalu.com)

  

The ultimate test of man's conscience may be his willingness to sacrifice something today for future generations whose words of thanks will not be heard. (Gaylord Nelson)

Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot,

Nothing is going to get better. It's not (Dr. Suess)